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 I
needed the pharmacist to get dressings for my now very blistered
and vulnerable bites and it had been spotted in the Lonley
Planet guide that there is a roof top bar which promoted the
views of madurai from this vantage point.
Realising the potential in this latter idea for a cold beer,
we quickly hopped an autorickshaw and arrived at the bar to
discover it didn't open til 4. I went to the chemist and as
we walked to meet up with each other we stopped and saw an
airconditioned bar offering cold beer
We entered the foyer and two men, slightly surprised, went
and got keys and unlocked the door which led to a pitched
black space. Fearlessly we entered, assuming they were opening
for us, to find a room full of men sat in the dark drinking
(and some smoking). We were anomalous in every sense - women,
western, dressed in salwar chemises and dupattas looking for
a drink.
We savoured our find and before we left we went to the loos
only to find that the only loo was for men. We've all been
there before heh so we didn't stop on this occasion
Shopping tasks accomplished we were retuning to the roof top
bar when we saw perhaps the most emaciated woman yet - bare
breasted, no teeth, matted hair, stick thin. Our refrain from
giving to beggars waivered - she didn't in fact ask - we gave
her some rupees and reflected on the grotesque inequalities
We set off back to the college and arrived in time to put
long sleeve shirts on and get to church to share in the communities
worship and the community meal.
During this meal a young girl of 10 had befriended sandie
- her english was perfect, her confidence apparent and she
had shared with sande she wanted to become a judge. - think
she will.
About 150 people or so had come - some from outside of the
vlilage from Aralagum - a womans hostel for prostitutes who
have been brought in from the streets- many with HIV some
who have not. Most under 20 a few in their 30's a couple with
obvious mental health problems.
Their key worker told us that the women were tested and those
without HIV get put in a pool for the arranger to find husbands
for them - but you have to wonder what man comes to get his
wife who he knows has been a prostitute from such a place
- one hopes its a man of compassion who sees the negative
test positively but I'm not sure
Those who test positive but are well nurse those who are dying
- of AIDS, TB or cancer in the hospice. Some now have infected
children and orphaned children with infection come too. I
felt very weepy.
We retired back to the guest house to do more washing and
to go to bed. An early start tomorrow to set off to the villages
- here the heat will be greater and facilities more basic.
I got into my sleep sack to write a little but the Gekko who
wanted to keep us company was a distraction. I thought I'd
just cover my head and await morning. X
Day Nine
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