Liz in India - Day 21-25

We arrived in Mysore to monsoon weather. Most bathroom showers don't deliver the volume of water or pressure that the skies shed upon us on this occasion. We caught an autorickshaw to our hotel - the Green Hotel. A wonderful old Princess' palace just 6kms from the centre. This hotel is Indian run and its profits are given to Indian charities. It was a real taste of shabby gentile elegance and the old palace, in which we were lucky enough to have our rooms, was beautifully furnished with old dark wooden furniture and high ceilings with beams and fans.

The food, service and gardens here were lovely - described by the front of house person as simple and good - "we are not professionals he said just simple people who are making a little for charities". An interesting dis-association with the word professional that we in the West want to claim as a reflection of an aspirational standard

 
 
 
 
 

We had a leisurely day on Saturday - we met up with some friends of Kanika's and hired 2 autorickshaws for the day. We went and had our eyebrows threaded - a fabulous technique where the beauty therapist holds the thread in her teeth and rolls the thread skilfully across your eyebrows gently pulling very specific hairs out as required. The shop had in fact closed for the holiday so charged us double for opening - all of 30 rupees each!

As may be predicted on a hot holiday weekend we soon decided it was time for cold beer and snacks in very Indian style bar which was selected by our autorickshaw driver. We have become used to intruding in these all male preserves with ease and confidence during our stay.

Replenished and rested we went to the Palace - it was hot, packed and hassling - lots of people trying to sell stuff and touching and jostling. We couldn't stand it so half the team went back to use the internet and Sandra, Jinksy and I ventured out to find some decent wine for later. The first party succeeded; our party failed but not before we'd seen 3 or 4 very dodgy looking drinking establishments with men drinking hard liquor.

As night fell Fay, Kanika and her friends, and I went to see the Palace lights and hear the musicians playing in the open air. It was spectacular. Over 7k lights illuminated 4 palace buildings and the atmosphere was relaxed, friendly and excitable.

We came back for dinner with the others with our return trip taking nearly an hour as the autorickkshaw driver queued for petrol with us in his vehicle. This is India and time seems very flexible and patience, an important virtue. Following dinner, an attempt to see the world cup rugby was thwarted by the absence of a critical channel but our reward was to meet two wonderful South African women who had gathered also in the tv room - an Avatar follower who has been every year for the last seven to Mysore to see her 'master' and a property lawyer who had come for this trip with her as her travel companion. Sunday brought the big day in Mysore we had come to witness - the famous Jumbo procession which marks the end of Dasara.

This procession should be watched by all good Hindus we were told and the streets were becoming lined with families from 10am for a 1-3ish start. The heat was terrific and I couldn't have stood in the sun to catch a glimpse of the procession through the crowd which was 35-40 people deep. Our well-travelled group, under the guidance of Catriona and John, however had the benefit of a first floor view from a hotel room and balcony we'd hired from 10-5pm. The benefits of a bed, fan and toilet were invaluable and so we watched the parade which passed our window from 3pm

The day however was not quite as simple for all. Fay was to join us late afternoon - staying behind in the hotel in the morning to have some time with her daughter and to sort some lovely treats for me for my birthday the next day Unfortunately - whilst she sat with Kanika a call came through and Kanika's friend Daniel had fainted, fitted, cracked his head and became concussed in the market that morning. Hospital beckoned for Fay as she went to support the young travellers sort out what would happen next. Latest thinking was diabetes or a reaction to the anti-malarial tablets - in any event a worry for Daniel.

The procession was long and many dancers, drummers and floats passed. The highlights for me, and I suspect for many being, the elephants which opened and closed the parade - beautifully painted, be-jewelled and saddled with silks - a true spectacle. The event finished about 5 and we walked back to the groups' accommodation at a missionary guest house that runs a women’s project. It was a fabulous house set in tree filled gardens which were simple. The house offered dormitory style accommodation but home cooked food.
Sandra, Jinksy, Fay and I left the big group for our last good bye and went via the hotel to change for dinner to celebrate my birthday. I returned to find rose petals scattered throughout my room, a bowl of petals floating in water on the dresser and then some stunning peace lilies in purple and pink and a bird of paradise flower and presents from my friends - what a sensory delight and a lovely surprise
We were joined for dinner by Kanika and her friend Marla - enjoying good food, good Indian cabernet sauvignon (Chantilly red) and relaxed conversation. It was a lovely treat.

Monday morning Kanika left 6am for Chennai via Bangalore - Fay and I got up to see her off and then went back for a few more hours sleep. The morning - our last - was lovely - I opened a number of beautiful cards - especially one from my son Josh - which made me glad to know I was now returning back to the UK to see him and others who I know have taken this journey in some way with me.

Thanks for messages and kind thoughts and for being 'connective' in different ways in all I and the connectives do. This trip will I hope have brought a little of the sense we have that all our fortunes are in some-way interdependent and that we can by putting ideas, people, projects together deliver break through outcomes that are sustainable socially, economically and environmentally. So that's it from me for now. If you are interested further in knowing more about Concerns Universe Foundation or about how you could make a difference with them or some of our other projects, please call

With love. Liz