Liz in India - Day 2

Mercy Flora and her daughters are hard working and generous. We awoke this morning to vegetable curry and two types of japati - one a bready one and the other a crispy pancake. It's strange to be asleep one minute and eating curry the next!

We thought we were going shopping this morning at 10 am but there was a national strike and everything here is on 'ish' time.

We looked at photos which MF produced. Some with her grannie, her mum, her and her daughters. We saw many pictures of Catriona at all ages and of her family. It was nice to see some of Catriona's Mum who I had the pleasure of meeting a number of times during her latter years but whilst she was still well.

We then all went back to bed and after a long sleep awoke to - yes - you guessed it some fish curry and a highly salt and peppered omlette.

It has felt like eating has been our olympic sport and MF and her daughters stand over you and watch you eat and pile more food on your plate until you firmly say no more

We talked more today about families and they showed us around their apartment. We realised in comparison to the apts we saw yesterday that this is luxurious - our room has a large single and a double bed in it with a tap and shower which give cool water. It has a flushing loo but no loo roll in sight - the left hand is supposed to fulfill that function. I don't know if that is what has prevented all of us from 'regularising' our systems (as you have never seen more wet wipe products in your life) or the binding effects of eggs and rice!

There is besides our room a smaller bedroom - perhaps only big enough for a double bed but with no beds in it. We learnt that's where all 7 family members are sleeping- and as we were shown in MF's husband was asleep on the hard tiled floor. There were 3 double filing cabinet like wardrobes with their things in it and a picture of Jesus- nothing else. We asked and were told when we or other guests are not using the guest room and bathroom Franky the 19 year old grandson has it - all to himself.

He's a nice young man and kind. We assume (but don't ask) if it is because he is the only boy.

We saw the two gas burners and small kitchen from which the plentiful food comes - it is hard to imagine the wit and timing skills needed to produce such meals.

We didn't see the other loo but it's behind a small door. I wonder if it's a pit latrine or toliet and shower. The two Sandras and I think we would use the lounge which has the dining table for sleeping but it seems that they don't and in fact when we are here they sit on the bedroom floor to eat.

On top of the building there is a paved roof space large and clean. The laundry is pegged out up there and as I look out from here in the sun I see beauty and luxury in our temporary home. A papaya tree, a banana tree and coconut trees are visible in the immediate area from here. As is a muddy unmade yard and ramshackle dwelling occupied by women washing clothes who don't look so well off as MF and her family.

Tonight we did shop. We were taken to town via a church where St Thomas hid before he was martyred and where a stone carved in a cross allegedly bled for 2 centuries.

On route to find the church we found our driver had missed his turn on a busy 6 lane-ish road so we drove back the wrong way down the soft shoulder! We were pleased MF and her daughters had stood in a small circle around our van and prayed before we left and more insightful as to where the custom may come from.

Arriving at the shops we went to a 'dept' store and saw endless rows and shelves stacked high with silks for saris, shawls and Shawlwar chemises. A feast of colour and textures and smells.

We made some purchases and ventured home.

In the car coming back we learnt that only Sopia is still with her husband. Amelia's marriage ended after 12 months as her husband became violent after they wed. She fears for Rina her daughter. It is tough to be one of 3 daughters and a single mum with a daughter. Rina is so smart and cute one can't help hope there will be something good for her.

I remember MF's words from earlier in the day - she said when we had seen her photos and given each other details of our addresses and birthdays - please don't forget my family.

I don't know how we could.

Liz

Day Three