India Diary - Day 11

Vanakkam (Welcome)

Breakfast excellent - dosa, sam bar, chutney, spices, wadi for 13 people - less than £3 (about 200 rupees).

We travelled on our wonderful 17 seat bus with the flashing and lit up Hindu gods (how kitsch) to the Five Falls.

Here women and men stand under separate falls to feel the force of the water fall from the big rocks. Women in saris, salwars and some in nighties or washing robes laugh as the water falls on their long black hair and makes their clothes stick like glue to their skin. Men in their lunghis or dhotis bath and jostle in a playful manner.

After a number bathed - I refrained for a number of reasons (not least of all it had the making of a bad wet t shirt competition!).

We got back in the bus and went a little further on to the main falls.- Kuttalam Falls These were much bigger and attracted more western tourists as well as Indian tourists, washer women and bathers.

Back on the bus we shared sweet tiny bananas and rice crisps. - the further south we journey the more rice and lentil flours are used and the wider my diet extends.

We journeyed through Tirunelveli - famous for its sweets - and missionaries- and I think is the home village for Lancelot - Chitra's husband

We stopped soon after for lunch in a Rotary Club sponsored hostel and shared again a wonderful meal for around 600 rupees -Under £9.

Sleep overtook me as did the heat and it was some time before I awoke sensing the growing excitement building as we neared Chitra's village.

Passing lush greenery, majestic mountains, rice fields and ponds of crocuses we entered the bustling village where Chitra’s mom and dad live - Thoppur. We could feel the excitement grow - Chitra had last seen her parents in Dec 06 and had left early due to falling ill. Her smiles and giggles were infectious and as we arrived they were matched by the smiles and welcome offered by her parents.

We drank tea from Chitra’s brother’s tea plantation in Ooty and enjoyed rice baked cookies and savoury biscuits. We toured the house and heard stories of the village before departing for our hotel I which was en route to Kanykumari. This 'hotel' or more accurately hostel is used as an ashram by many who come to study yoga and meditation. Simple but welcome space in which to rest

We managed to negotiate a night off from food and the party split into 2 - a washing party. And a search party for beers and crisps.

Both achieved their task and there was much laundry to sit and admire as we drank a few beers and listened to Banghra music.

An early night with a 9am start tomorrow for our trip to the southern most tip to look forward to and relief for all from our recent singing efforts!

Liz

Day Twelve